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Desk journalists gather in Louisiana for a field reporting trip

This week we've got a bit of a travelogue. Earlier this month, reporters from Desk newsrooms in the far-flung reaches of the river basin gathered in Louisiana for some field reporting on our big upcoming wetlands project.
Minnesota Star Tribune environmental editor James Shiffer joined the team and shared his experience trading the chilly north for southern swamps, at least for a few days. Here's James.
An editor’s dispatch from the lower basin
Stretches of the upper Mississippi River were frozen solid when journalists from Minnesota and Wisconsin traveled to Louisiana for five days earlier this month. Though it was not a hard decision to trade subzero wind chills and ice-crusted eyebrows for palm trees and beignets, this trip had a serious purpose: the Desk has been working on a big series about wetlands in the Mississippi River basin, one of its signature landscapes from headwaters to delta. Our reporters are digging into the current legal and development threats to these valuable ecosystems, which not only provide crucial habitats but also flood protection. The eight-part series will bring readers to prairie potholes in the Midwest, threatened swamps in Mississippi, and Louisiana’s most fabled and threatened bayous, swamps and marshes. Look for these stories in April!

I am co-leading the project with Milwaukee Journal Sentinel reporter Madeline Heim and Desk editor Tegan Wendland, who is based in New Orleans and brought us down to conduct interviews and get out in the field with the Desk’s southern team.
Gleeful Eagles fans were still staggering around the French Quarter when we arrived the day after the Super Bowl. Tegan had arranged a busy schedule, presumably to keep the visitors away from the oyster houses and Sazerac bars.
We left the mittens behind and picked up our notebooks for interviews with water policy experts at Tulane University and The Water Institute. We were joined by Mississippi Free Press reporter Illan Ireland for a boat tour of Bayou Bienvenue, the site of a “ghost forest” wetland that once protected New Orleans from hurricanes. With the city skyline in the near distance, some early season alligators patrolled the bayou. Tempting though it was, we decided against a refreshing dip.
The next day took us farther afield, to the globally significant Atchafalaya Basin. We were joined by Louisiana desk reporters Delaney Dryfoos (The Lens) and Elise Plunk (Louisiana Illuminator), contributor Eva Tesfaye (WWNO) and photographer La’Shance Perry (The Lens). Even Bobby, the official Desk dog, came along, though no one wanted to sit next to him in the boat because he had rolled in something rotten near a dumpster.


The Atchafalaya is the largest swamp in the United States, bigger than the Everglades and even more productive. Ecotour operator and fiery river advocate Dean Wilson guided us on his motorboat through the twisting channels and cypress forests that serve as a crucial habitat for migratory birds, a floodway for the Mississippi River and the heart of Louisiana’s crawfish fishery. He held forth on the river’s wonders and its threats, under an austere landscape of Spanish moss and cypress knees poking out of water green with sediment. Since a front had blown through the night before, the alligators were hiding from the cold. The only ones we saw were a couple unfortunate specimens floating belly up, their days of noshing on turtles and tourists over for good. Egrets, anhingas, herons and wood ducks expressed their annoyance by squawking and noisily flying away when we approached. Not many go to this place, and that’s one of the things that makes it magical.

Next stop was Baton Rouge, home of Louisiana State University’s Center for River Studies and its giant Lower Mississippi River Physical Model. It’s a high-tech scale model of the lower river housed in what looks like a cross between a swimming pool, gymnasium and IMAX theater (if the movie was projected on the floor). The river model uses real water and simulated sediment to study and predict its movements from Donaldsonville, Louisiana, to the Gulf. Whether it can save Louisiana from washing into the sea remains to be seen, but it certainly was cool.
Since I started working with the Ag & Water Desk three years ago, I’ve learned so much about how what happens in the headwaters affects everything downstream. This excursion helped me see what makes the river so different in its lower reaches - the vast areas of wetlands, the ever-present levees, the constant river traffic. I look forward to bringing our readers along on what’s perhaps the first ever Mississippi-wide swamp tour.
— James Shiffer, Star Tribune environmental editor
Michael here again. We are very excited to share the wetlands project with you in the coming months. As I've seen the images and reporting come in from across the basin, I keep thinking about a great line James has in this piece, "Not many go to this place, and that’s one of the things that makes it magical." We hope to capture that experience of these wetlands in our reporting, and convey the benefits of and threats to them basin-wide. More TK, as they say.
Thanks for reading. More next week from across the basin!
Sincerely,
Michael Crowe
Interim Assistant Director,
Ag & Water Desk
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